Building a Truly Inclusive Runway: Progress, Challenges, and Practical Steps in Fashion Representation

Photo by Francis Odeyemi on Unsplash

Introduction: Rethinking Inclusivity in Runway Casting

The global fashion industry has experienced powerful calls for greater inclusivity and authentic representation on the runway over the past decade. While early progress was promising-spurred by consumer demand and high-profile initiatives-recent reports indicate that advancements have slowed, and significant gaps in representation persist. Understanding the current landscape, the barriers to progress, and actionable steps for improvement is essential for industry professionals, advocates, and consumers alike. ^[1]

The Current State of Runway Inclusivity

The push for diversity on the runway began gaining mainstream traction in the mid-2010s, with landmark moments such as Rihanna’s launch of Fenty Beauty and the inclusion of a broader range of body types and ethnicities in major fashion shows. However, as of 2024 and 2025, several key indicators reveal that this momentum has stalled:

Racial Diversity : While past seasons saw improvements, recent data from the British Fashion Council shows representation of models of color on runways has plateaued, indicating a halt in growth rather than ongoing progress. ^[1]
Body Size Representation : The Spring/Summer 2025 report by Vogue Business points out a troubling return to extremely thin models, with little evidence of body size inclusivity remaining a priority. ^[1]
People with Disabilities : Models with visible and invisible disabilities continue to be severely underrepresented. Adaptive fashion is still regarded as a niche, not a mainstream focus. ^[1]

Despite awareness, nearly half of U.S. adults felt excluded from fashion advertising in the last year, highlighting the disconnect between brand messaging and true inclusivity. ^[2]

Why Representation Matters: Business and Social Imperatives

Authentic representation on the runway is not just a moral imperative-it is a business necessity. A diverse fashion landscape empowers consumers to see themselves reflected in the media, which drives engagement, loyalty, and purchasing decisions. According to a 2024 U.S. fashion report, 63% of adults believe diversity in fashion is crucial, yet many still feel left out of the conversation. ^[2] Brands that prioritize inclusivity can unlock new markets, foster deeper customer relationships, and avoid reputational risks associated with tone-deaf or exclusionary campaigns.

Furthermore, experts argue that sidelining diversity equates to missed revenue opportunities, as a wider array of consumers seek brands that align with their values and lived experiences. ^[3]

Overcoming Barriers to Inclusive Runway Casting

Despite growing consumer awareness, several persistent challenges delay progress:

Legacy Standards : Many designers and agencies still adhere to outdated ideals of beauty, which limits the pool of models considered for casting and restricts creative expression.
Lack of Industry Accountability : Without transparent benchmarks and public reporting, it is difficult to track progress or hold brands responsible for backsliding on inclusivity commitments.
Limited Access & Opportunity : Emerging models from marginalized communities may lack access to professional networks, casting calls, or resources necessary for career advancement.
Superficial Diversity Initiatives : Some brands engage in tokenism-showcasing a handful of diverse models for marketing purposes without embedding inclusivity into their broader hiring, design, or business practices.

Actionable Steps for Brands, Agencies, and Advocates

To advance authentic inclusivity in runway casting and representation, stakeholders should consider the following multi-step approach:

Implement Transparent Casting Protocols
Brands and agencies can publish clear guidelines for model selection and share diversity statistics publicly. This transparency helps maintain accountability and encourages broader participation. For example, organizations can conduct annual audits of their runway lineups, reporting the breakdown of race, body size, gender identity, and disability status among cast members.
Partner with Diverse Talent Agencies
Working with agencies that specialize in representing models from underrepresented backgrounds ensures access to a wider and more authentic talent pool. Brands can also foster relationships with grassroots organizations that support aspiring models from marginalized communities.
Prioritize Adaptive and Accessible Fashion
To address the underrepresentation of people with disabilities, brands can collaborate with experts in adaptive design to create accessible collections and feature disabled models in campaigns and runway presentations. Seeking feedback from disability advocates and consumers can further refine these efforts.
Move Beyond Tokenism
Genuine representation involves integrating diversity into every aspect of the creative process-from design and casting to marketing and leadership. Brands should avoid performative gestures and instead embed inclusivity as a core value, reflected consistently in their actions and communications.
Foster Industry-Wide Collaboration
Fashion councils, trade bodies, and advocacy groups can establish industry-wide standards and best practices for inclusive casting. Regular roundtable discussions, workshops, and educational campaigns can help shift collective mindsets and promote ongoing learning.

Photo by Mansado Louis on Unsplash

How Individuals and Aspiring Models Can Access Opportunities

For those seeking to participate in the fashion industry as models or advocates for inclusivity, several practical pathways exist:

Networking and Community Engagement : You can build connections by attending open casting calls, joining model advocacy groups, and participating in online forums centered on diversity in fashion. Social media platforms such as Instagram and LinkedIn are valuable for showcasing portfolios and connecting with inclusive agencies.
Researching Agencies : Look for modeling agencies with a proven track record of promoting diverse talent. Many reputable agencies list their diversity statements and portfolios on their official websites. If unable to find a local agency that prioritizes inclusivity, you may consider contacting national bodies like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) or the British Fashion Council for recommendations.
Engaging With Inclusive Brands : Follow and support fashion brands known for authentic representation. Brands often announce open casting opportunities and campaigns through their official websites or verified social media channels. Regularly check these sources for updates and application instructions.
Advocacy and Education : Aspiring models and advocates can participate in educational programs, workshops, and webinars hosted by industry organizations focusing on diversity and inclusion. These programs may provide mentorship, portfolio reviews, and practical guidance for navigating the industry.

If you need help finding specific opportunities, search for terms like “diverse model casting calls,” “inclusive modeling agencies,” or “adaptive fashion opportunities” in combination with your city or region. Contacting established fashion councils or professional associations can also provide guidance and resources.

Case Studies and Real-World Examples

Some brands have made tangible progress by committing to inclusivity as a core business strategy. For example, several major labels have introduced adaptive clothing lines, collaborated with models who have disabilities, and prioritized diverse casting in their runway shows. However, the industry as a whole still has substantial ground to cover to ensure these practices become the norm rather than the exception. ^[1]

For instance, advocacy organizations regularly track representation data and publish annual reports evaluating runway diversity. Engaging with these organizations and reviewing their findings can provide further insight into industry trends and opportunities for involvement.

Key Takeaways and Next Steps

While the fashion industry has made significant strides in recognizing the importance of inclusivity, the path to genuine, lasting change requires consistent effort, transparency, and collaboration. Brands, agencies, and advocates must continue to challenge legacy standards and hold each other accountable for progress. Individuals interested in pursuing modeling or supporting inclusive fashion can leverage community resources, reputable agencies, and educational programs to access and create new opportunities.

For more information on runway inclusivity, consider searching for official industry reports or contacting established organizations such as the British Fashion Council, Council of Fashion Designers of America, or Fashion Revolution. These bodies frequently publish guidance and updates regarding diversity and representation in fashion.